AirBot Flip32 F3 AIO Lite and Typhoon 4-in-1 ESC

This article is a review and guide for the following components:

Overview

Airbot F3AIO-LITE F3 flight controller with 16MB of flash.

Airbot Typhoon 4x20A 4in1 ESC which is 4 littlebee ESCs on a single 35x35mm PCB.

RTFQ Power Distribution Board which works in tadem with the flight controller to provide power along with voltage and current sensing.

F3AIO-LITE

The key differentiator between the BeeRotorF3 F3AIO-LITE is the 16MB of flash and the full size, 2.54mm pin headers, as opposed to the SH1.25 connectors on the BeeRotorF3. Mounting holes are the standard 30.5x30.5mm but one edge of the pdb extends slightly beyond the standard 35x35mm outline.

It comes with the manual, pin headers and jumpers for the OSD / Flight controller selection

On the front we see the Spektrum Satellite receiver port, USB port, STM32 ST-LINK debugging pins (broken out as pads) and the various 2.54mm header holes which are described in detail below in the connection diagram section.

F3AIO Pinouts

Here are the pinouts. Note that video in (VIN) is on the top of the board and video out (VOUT) is on the bottom.

Both RAM pins are connected, allowing power to pass from the video transmitter to the camera. This is also connected to the V_sense line by a 0ohm resistor, which can be removed if you want. I prefer to leave these pins unused and power the camera and VTX separately.

F3AIO Jumper Settings

There are 3 jumper settings available on the board. The different modes are for: OSD flashing and configuration, Flight Controller flashing and configuration and Flight Mode where the OSD and flight controller are connected.

OSD Flashing and configuration mode

With the jumpers in this position, the USB port is connected to the OSD.

Flight Controller Flashing and configuration mode

With the jumpers in this position, the USB port is connected to the flight controller.

Flight Mode

With the jumpers in this position, the USB port is disconnected and the OSD is connected to the flight controller.

F3AIO connection diagram

Here's how I chose to populate mine. I'm using a SBUS receiver:

F3AIO Flash ScarabOSD

If you plug in the board and see this when you launch the Scarab OSD configuration tool, it means you'll need to update the Scarab OSD firmware:

Flash and configure it the same way as described in the the OZE32 ScarabOSD flashing guide. My configuration files are available below.

My Config.h is available here: https://gist.githubusercontent.com/nathantsoi/0db1b3933bfcf9b5653edbcf3239724b/raw/Config.h

  • to use, click Raw and then save as Config.h in the MW_OSD folder you extracted from the ScarabOSD release page.

My scarab-osd.osd is available here: https://gist.githubusercontent.com/nathantsoi/1ba3c5cc4892022b04ab/raw/scarab-osd.osd

  • to use, open the GUI, connect and click the little LOAD button on the left, under DISK. Then hit WRITE under OSD CONTROLS

F3AIO Flash BetaFlight

Flashing and configuration is basically the sameas described in the the Victory230 article.

Download the CleanFlight configurator (yes, it works with BetaFlight) and the latest release of BetaFlight.

Switch the jumpers to the Flight Controller Flashing setting and plug in the USB and you should be good to go!

Before you fly, remember to switch the jumper back to flight mode.

Typhoon 4x20A 4in1 ESC

I have the beta edition, expecting a few of the v1 in the mail. Here is what comes in the box:

You won't need an extra capacitor to handle voltage spikes, like on the original LittleBee ESCs, since the Typhoon is engineered to handle the back-current.

Also, there is also an awesome new, upgraded version of the typhoon 4in1 that supports 6s! It uses the F396 processor and runs LittleBee 20A PRO firmware. Check it out here: (LittleBee Typhoon Pro)[http://shop.myairbot.com/index.php/typhoon4x20a4in1esc-65.html#r-pNathanT]

RTFQ Power Distribution Board

It has 2 voltage regulators, one adjustable and one set to 5v. The little screw on the left is how the voltage on the variable regulator can be adjusted.

It is cool the voltage can be adjusted, but I'm not sure when this is useful. Having some 12v and some 5v taps would cover 99% of all cases. Plus, the voltage regulator should be checked with a voltmeter before using it, so you'll need to do the extra step of wiring a battery to the PDB and checking (and adjusting) the variable output before hooking up your gear.

The PDB build quality is good. It includes a 50a shut resistor which functions as a current sensor and should handle up to about 90 amps.

You'll want to connect the current sensor output C_Sens from the PDB to the CRNT pin on the F3AIO and the battery voltage V_Sens output to the BAT pin.

Alternatively, if you're not using a PDB, the RAM pin is also connected to V_Sens.